The Future of Fashion - Supporting sustainable fashion in 2020

How can you support sustainable fashion?

It's not all about wearing eco-friendly clothing, neither does it mean the death of fashion, it's about making a change to the way you shop and bringing an end to fast fashion. 

It was overwhelming to see so many local, sustainable fashion supporters come along to the Future of Fashion event at Beyond Retro Bristol in December.

I was honoured to be involved in this very special project, collaborating with vintage fashion legends, Beyond Retro, representing both Bristol24/7 and the No Debutante blog; bringing local fashionistas, designers and makers together to share our knowledge and experiences on how to go sustainable in 2020.

The fashion panel included  Joh Rindom, founder of independent fashion store That Thing, local artist and jewellery maker, Sophie Filomena, upcycling fashion designer Emma White from Duvet Days, Amelia Twine from sustainable fashion platform Give Wear Love: and featured an inspiring talk from caped crusader Cat Jameson, founder of rainwear brand Carny Valley.

Sustainable fashion supporters attend the Future of Fashion event at Beyond Retro Bristol

It was inspiring to have these amazing women join us and really get involved with the subject of sustainability in fashion and the directions we need to take going forward. Each panel member had their own views, ideas and experiences on how we can all make a change, not just within the fashion industry but in our lifestyles too.

The main aim for the Future of Fashion event was to share knowledge on what is happening within the fast fashion industry and offer ideas on more sustainable alternatives.

 By supporting local and independent businesses, buying pre-worn clothes and pre-owned items (from fashion to furniture) from charity and vintage shops and generally slowing down our consumption, we can put an end to wasteful, mass production.

If we start to change our own mentalities towards shopping we could make a big impact on the way the fashion industry works. If you slow down, the fashion industry will have to follow...

Support sustainability events in your local area 

You can make a start by asking yourself whilst shopping....

Do I really need it? 
Do I really like it? 
Is it good quality and will it last? 

The more sustainably conscious among us will also ask:
How did it get here and why is it so cheap? 

One thing you can be sure of, if an item is being sold at a crazy low price, it didn't get where it is sustainably...

Although the Future of Fashion event was an extremely positive and knowledgeable experience that I hope to continue in future meet ups, it did make a few of us feel like we were preaching to the converted, as nearly everyone who had come along were already sustainability supporters.

So how do we get the knowledge out to the people who aren't actively looking for ways to change? How do we attract those fast fashion shoppers who shop til they drop and are, consciously or not, supporting mass production and the distruction of our planet?

Supporting sustainable fashion isn't just a movement or the latest fad, it's a serious change that every single one of us needs to get involved in, right now!

Organising more sustainable fashion events around the city is a good place to start but would the majority of the consumers we are trying to attract, actively seek out or attend these events? I'm not convinced...

If you can't make the people come to a sustainable fashion event, take the sustainable fashion event to the people!

The Future of Fashion event was a collaboration between Beyond Retro, Bristol 24/7 and the No Debutante blog

Holding sustainable fashion events right in the heart of the city centre has to be the way to go. We want to catch those fast fashion lovers in full shop, on their own turf  - their local shopping centre and high streets.

This has already been trialled and tested here in Bristol by Creative Youth Network who put on an upcycled fashion show in the Cabot Circus shopping centre at Christmas time, grabbing the attention of the high street lovers mid-shop, by telling them what is happening in the fashion industry and how they can make a change.  In my opinion, it was an ingenious idea from CYN! 

Similarly, Extinction Rebellion took over a busy high street with their impromptu sustainable fashion show - Distrupt the Circus of Excess - in Bristol last summer. The fashion revolution has already begun, we just need more people behind it! 

To be clear, I am not trying to get all of these high street shops closed down, I just want the corporates to realise why they need to change. We want to save the planet and by joining us in making a change they could possibly save their businesses too....When the fast fashion backlash really kicks in, and it will, they'll need to be on the right side of it to survive.

The sad thing is the high street is also competing with the millions of fast fashion online shops. Pushed into dropping their prices to keep their customers, at the cost of the quality of their products and their reputation.

Who is to blame and how did we get to this point? Is it the corporate fast fashion pushers telling us to buy, buy,buy or the greedy consumers who are demanding new and cheap fashion items around the clock?  It's a bit of a chicken and the egg situation isn't it?

Local designers Sophie Filomena (left) and Carny Valley (right) pop-up at The Future of Fashion event

Back at the FOF event, Sophie Filomena expressed a big interest in encouraging indie markets into shopping malls after running a stall at the Cabot Circus shopping centre this year. 

"Instead of feeling alienated by this new group of potential customers I was positively elated by the praise and love the high street shoppers gave about my work. They told me they had never seen anything like it and loved the whole indie market idea!". Sophie Filomena - artist and maker

It's not that fast fashion shoppers prefer the high street (although those crazy low prices are bound to entice every shopper who is looking for a bargain) most shoppers just aren't exposed to indie makers work and there is no wonder..

"There is no way any indies could afford to sell on the high street as the rents are so ridiculously high. Why doesn't the council consider leasing out all those empty buildings to independents and supporting local?". Joh Rindom founder of That Thing

Joh certainly has a point, there are parts of the Bristol city centre (and every town and city in the UK) with empty buildings just standing dormant, rotting and waiting for another coffee shop chain to move in.

Local businesses and magazines like Bristol24/7 do what they can to support independents and startups but despite our thriving creativity, that is recognised worldwide, this city seems more interested in gentrifying and opening another corporate chain over keeping things local, independent and supporting our own economy.

How brilliant would it be to introduce independent designers and businesses to the high street and  throw a sustainable Bristol Fashion Week, all supported by the local council? It's food for thought...

Going sustainable in 2020 - The Future of Fashion event poster

With plans already in motion to hold an independently run Green Bristol Fashion Week, Give Wear Love founder Amelia Twine is big on changing the future of fashion as soon as possible.

Inspired to set up her own sustainable fashion platform after finding it hard to buy sustainably and ethically made fashions, Amelia's online store offers sustainable garms made by small, independent fashion brands who use ethical and slow fashion practises.

Feeling she could still do more, Amelia has now taken the bold step to only sell garments made from pre-loved and upcycled fabrics.

"Making any new garments from new fabrics, no matter how sustainable and organic they are, is still adding to the problem" Amelia Twine - Give Wear Love

As a designer myself, who has been struggling with sustainability focus over creativity and IS currently using new fabrics to create new garments, no matter how much I reuse many of my fabric scraps, organic fabrics and keep manufacturing local, I know, in the long run, Amelia is right!

Over time I have become inspired to introduce more sustainable practices into my design work and, I'm pleased to say, new ideas have since been formed!...But that's another story which I will discuss on the blog very soon....

Emma White from Duvet Days hit the upcycling nail on the head, by repurposing retro duvets into super cool new pieces.

"It's not that easy making new garments from clothing that already exists, the fabric samples are so small to work with and you are limited to what you can create. Upcycling duvets gives you more freedom as you have large pieces of fabric to work with, making new garments whilst remaining sustainable". Emma White - Duvet Days 

Cat Jameson from Carny Valley disusses running a fashion brand sustainably

Cat Jameson from Carny Valley Capes gave a short talk at the FOF event, introducing her innovative rain capes whilst sharing the problems she faces as a fashion designer and sustainability supporter.

 "I struggled and tried to be as sustainable and right as I could without it stopping my business from functioning". Cat Jameson - Carny Valley Capes

Cat and Amelia both spoke about creating circular economies, keeping resources in use for as long as possible, cutting down on our carbon footprint in distribution and creating less waste and pollution; in contrast to the make/use/dispose process that is currently happening within the fast fashion industry.

In contadiction, even with the best intentions, making changes may also have a knock on effect within the fashion industry. Research shows that ending certain practises within the fashion chain can actually make things worse in other areas!

If, for example, we stopped creating new fabrics and shut down all the factories, even for sustainable organic fabrics, it would be very good for the environment but in contrast, a whole town  - that for generations, have relied on these factories for work and income - could lose their industry, ruining their local economy. We need to get the balance right.....

Campaigns like Labour Behind The Label and Fashion Revolution are trying to support these circular economy's by making things work for everyone involved in the chain. These incredible campaigns cannot support these issues alone and need more help, funding and cooperation from the big businesses involved to make a significant change.

So, go support these campaigns AND make a change to the way you shop. If we all recognised that something needs to change then we can all make a difference together! 

I was asked an interesting question at the FOF event about the people who rely on low prices to be able to afford new clothes and how putting an end to fast fashion might affect them. 

Agreed, more sustainable processes would put the prices up but it isn't about making things more expensive, it's about changing your mind-set, we all need to shop less. 

If you are buying less and the prices have gone up a bit, things should balance out AND if the prices have gone up so will the quality, meaning your garments will last longer. 

We need to stop this throw away fashion mentality, choose wisely and keep items for longer.
The best thing I ever did was stop following fashion trends which is the worst culprit for encouraging throw away fashion. I buy clothes because I like them or need them, not to be seen in the next big thing for a wear once instagram post! 

Another good tip is to recreate favourite looks using your existing wardrobe rather than constantly updating your wardrobe to stay current. It's all about the styling, get creative!

As I've said before I am not telling you to stop following fashion or to stop buying new things, you can still get that fashion fix by putting this advice into practise.

• Buy less 
• Stop following trends
• Shop when you need to
• Buy good quality items that will last a lifetime
• Find local, independent fashion shops and designers
• Buy vintage and hunt for pre-loved charity shop gems
• Rework your existing wardrobe by upcycling and learning to sew and mend
• Create new looks using accessories
• Update your wardrobe by swapping clothes with friends or at clothes swap events

In conclusion, It is amazing that so many of us are getting involved in supporting slow fashion with an aim to encourage sustainability and change the way the current fashion industry runs. Events like the Future of Fashion bring people together, to share ideas and solve problems. We need to get this important message out there and the way to make a change is in numbers.We all want the same outcome, to save the planet.  Join us.


SUPPORT SLOW FASHION!



Read No Debutante's articles as fashion editor for Bristol24/7 

Follow No Debutante on Instagram 

The death of fashion....as we know it

Pioneering fashion designer Vivienne Westwood - Photograph by Justin Sutcliffe

What is a fashion designer?

"a person who designs high-fashion clothing."

Fashion has always been about the latest trends or the next big thing..... then we got greedy.

The more that was on offer, the more we wanted until we ended up where we are now. Up to our necks in fast fashion waste!

Until about 10 years ago, it was all about following the corporate fashion designers seasonal trends. This was a big enough problem as we were encouraged to update our wardrobes to meet the current seasons colours, shapes and must have items.

Now, we now have mid season and pre-collections with some brands dropping weekly limited edition pieces at extortionate prices. This in turn influences the high street and the smaller brands.

Every day the high street fills itself up with more fast fashion products competing with online stores to have the latest items available, (often the same sort of turfed out fast fashion is seen from shop to shop), all made super quickly and sold mega cheap, on a buy now and throw away later ethos! It is complete madness!

Shocking fast Fashion waste - istock image/justhavealook

How can supporting independent designers help slow fashion?

Despite the big, and rightly so, fast fashion backlash, we should still all be free to create.
There should be no stigma attached to somebody wanting to become a fashion designer or run their own fashion brand.

Most independent fashion designers and makers are not in it to make lots of money. They want to create and aspire to be able to become successful enough to start up their own small business, instead of working the 9 to 5, only creating in their spare time.

Independent fashion designers and makers work super hard to achieve their ambitions with a passion to create beautiful things!

An independent designer will make small capsule collections, often by hand, collections of limited editions on a tiny scale, reducing the amount of waste used and if you buy independent, you are supporting slow fashion too!

There are many amazing independent fashion designers and makers out there but we also have the independent brands, which is slightly different and could be seen as a problem.

The extremely hardworking , Bristol fashion designer Joh Rindom from independent streetwear brand & shop - That Thing  who also support other sustainable & independent UK Brands. 

What is a brand?

"a product or item made by a famous maker or manufacturer, as opposed to by a generic manufacturer."

The name brand is thrown around and used quite differently nowadays, it's not about making it in the fashion world until you have a recognisable logo.

The word brand can be used if you are creating a range of products, often starting with a logo or signature motif, whether you are a collective of designers or a single designer. Sometimes fashion design doesn't even come into it and it's all about the graphical content.

The worrying thing is that many independent fashion brands are influenced by the big corporates, with a drive to be very successful, even famous. Is it such a great thing to aspire to being just like the fast fashion corporate brands? Everyone is influenced by something right? It's a fine line....

There are many new brands that go straight for the marketing angle, creativity barely comes into it and a background in business is the top priority. By designing basic logos and graphics, many of these forward-thinking brands print them onto ready made tshirts and streetwear items.

They have already considered their marketing plan before designing a single product. Sharing images of bright young things and influencers wearing their (often quite basic) collection of products, promoting themselves on Instagram or Depop as the next big thing.

Many of these brands have an entrepreneurial focus, they haven't come from fashion school and neither do they have a degree in graphic design, they've just decided to do it.

As a fashion journalist, I see so much of this and I often think to myself, but where's the creativity?

You'd have to agree their aspiration (to conquer the fast fashion world!) isn't quite where it should be but they have considered their marketing strategies, it's impressive. In comparison, I've seen amazingly creative and unique designers fall flat as they just haven't considered any marketing plan at all, which means that not enough consumers are getting to see their amazing creations!

There is still some work needed to convince the new independent fashion brands to consider using more sustainable and slow fashion alternatives but at least they've tried to go out there and create something for themselves.

Cat Jameson from sustainable raincape business Carny Valley

There is no harm in starting up a new fashion brand if you are producing a slow fashion product, on small runs. I would support an independent brand over a fast fashion corporate any day!

The only problem is there are so many new brands starting all the time, with Instagram and Depop having a big influence. These days if you are pretty savvy on social media you could end up making a living out of it. This is the dream...

However, this is very different from the way an independent fashion designer works.

Looking at this practically and not strategically, a fashion brand is likely to print and embroider onto ready made sourced items like t-shirts and sweatshirts, they will have a logo and basic graphics and after choosing colourways and print placements, they use their amazing marketing skills to sell their products.

A fashion designer creates their own garments from scratch and often hand makes a whole collection using a selection of fabrics. They are very hands on and understand how to construct a garment and make limited small runs of each collection, with a few one off pieces added ad-hoc. The marketing side often comes in second place but is still extra work on top of all that making and creating. 

A fairly new term that has made it onto the fashion circuit is Cut and Sew. Often used by a brand that has started experimenting with creating their own garments and patterns, bringing a bit more personality and variation, even more creativity into their collections. Again, a Cut and Sew brand will probably still get these ranges made up for them after the initial sample patterns are decided.

Lulu Harrison from Balulu in Bristol upcycles fun garments from vintage Indian bedsheets

There is no right or wrong here...

After establishing what type or designer or brand you are, the big main focus needs to be to make sure you are not contributing to fast fashion. This is a hard one to swallow as anyone creating more fashion products is instantly contributing to the over-flowing fashion mess.

Even if you are the most sustainable and ethical t-shirt brand out there, that's one more t-shirt being created and put out. How can we justify this?

We can't as such, but we can change the mind of the consumers themselves and this is where all independent fashion designers and brands need to start.

Fashion doesn't need to stop, it needs to change. We still need clothes and sometimes we need to buy new clothes!

Helen Brown (left) from Kecks Clothing & No Debutante at a fashion salvage event at BTR in 2015 - Image courtesy of BTR

If you are a fashion brand, don't aim to be the next big thing, by mass producing and contributing to fast fashion, slow things down! Make sure your products are good quality and are built to last. Use ethically and sustainably made t-shirts, print very small, slow fashion runs, promote sustainability and slow fashion.

Too often I have seen a new brand get up to 100 t-shirts printed up only to sell about 10 of them, often to friends. I dread to think what happened to the rest! Start small....

If you are an ethical fashion brand, you have already considered most of the above (well done you!) but make sure your print designs are interesting and unique, as printing a logo onto a sustainably made t-shirt isn't really that much better than fast fashion, you are not contributing anything new.

It is a great thing that you are supporting sustainable and ethical fashion but don't wear it as a badge. Keeping things creative and fresh is key.

A selection of independent Bristol designers and brands at The Island Christmas shop 2018

If you are reading this as a consumer consider the following....

Support slow fashion. Support sustainable. Support independent. Support local.

Watch this space to read my next blog post to find out more on how to be more sustainable as both a designer, a brand and a consumer! 

Read more:  How I became a slow fashion blogger 

Time for change - The battle against fast fashion

The more I learn about sustainable fashion and how fast fashion is becoming a big contributor to destroying our planet, (it was estimated over 235 million unwanted clothing from Britain alone ended up in landfill last year) the less interested I become in buying new clothes from the high street. Now, I am no innocent in fast fashion, I used to do a Primark big shop for the family twice a year & I have no idea how much I was buying in between that on trips into town on my lunch breaks. 

I became obsessed with owning the next big thing, I honestly liked the disposable fashion idea inspired by wealthy Japanese kids in Harajuku, I couldn't afford it so the high street was the next best thing, Top Shop, Urban Outfitters & especially cheap as chips Primarni. 

Fast Fashion Primark Sunday haul from 2014 blog post

Previous to the high street obsession, I ran my own label and made my own clothes, many of them were sustainably sourced & upcycled from old garms, so why had I fallen so far from the DIY/make & do ethos I had when designing from my own fashion label? It was time. I had two small children & seriously had no time to make my own garms anymore, I was tired & frankly penniless! The fashion business came to an end & cheap, fast fashion was my only vice, I could just afford it. I then got a job at Venue Magazine, which I loved, so I had some extra money to buy more garms & could buy everything I needed online, just sitting at my desk. 

So, I still had no time to make my own garms, I had become a lazy shopper, just consuming whenever I wanted to at work. I started to discover new, independent labels like Lazy Oaf, who I still love, the prices weren't cheap but the garms were unique, good quality & on limited runs. I still buy a select few Lazy Oaf garms a year, I have to be honest, they are my ittle treat to myself. 

One of my treat Lazy Oaf garms with a slogan that is, very much so, in context! 

In 2015 I was invited along to a fashion salvage event by sustainable fashion activist & now good friend, Helen Brown, I was there for the blogging really, I wanted to get an article out of it. The team at Bristol Textiles Recycling completely woke me up out of my fast fashion haze, what on earth was I doing mass buying from Primark?

No Debutante & Helen Brown at a BTR fashion salvage event 2015

I wasn't completely cured from fast-fashion at this point. I filled my bags with fashion salvaged clothing, loving every moment of trawling through the bins for more fashion items! I was hungry for it, I felt awful. Helen made me feel a bit better by saying I was saving them from landfill, but in reality it was just contributing to my fast-fashion problem. However, I am also a massive clothes hoarder and Helen knew it! I still have most of the garms from that fashion-salvage event back in 2015, except for a couple of items (one of which I shrank in the wash). 

Helen Brown & No Debutante styled up in fashion salvaged garms 2015

I am happy to say that, even though I am still really too busy to do so, I have started creating my own garms again, inspired by all the amazing fashion designers I have met as a writer but also to start up again, where I left off, creating sustainable fashion in small runs to limit garment waste & save myself from fast fashion.

A sample garm from the Fruit Salad fashion label by No Debutante

As a fashion blogger who used to mainly write posts about my latest outfits, my fave high street shops & the latest fashion trends, it has come to my attention that I am no longer that blogger. I don't have enough new items to share, I am buying less. I am enjoying the challenge to only buy garments that I really love & styling up as many different outfit variations as I can with the items that are already in my wardrobe. 

I write about sustainable fashion & fashion independents, I still love fashion! My instagram posts are beginning to reflect this personal change in fashion, I no longer post 'What I Wore' every day (yes everyday, I was obsessed) I take little snap shots of outfits with the occasional WIW full body shots. I will, of course, still follow & promote fashion, it has been a real challenge for me to turn away from fast fashion but I feel I have grown up & realised what is actually more important to me as a fashion journalist & fashion advocate. 

No Debutante instagram images

Fashion has always been fast, it still is, but we can all change our ways, get a little bit wiser & consider a bit of slow fashion. Instead of focusing on trends & the next big thing, why not move our focus on to working with what we already have? 

Do you really need to own these things? Get a bit more savvy, it's not just about the fashion item or the label, its about how you wear it. I am not saying stop buying fashion labels & new garms, I still do it, treat yourself but slow down; the fashion labels will still be there but perhaps this will help to stop crazy, weekly fast fashion drops, that brands like Supreme are known for, it really is not necessary, if we slow down, they will too. 

Independent and sustainable fashion brands in Bristol
inc She Shirts, That Thing, Laa Woof, Duvet Days & Tezla Designs

Consider buying sustainably made, quality clothing that will last longer, or maybe, now that you are buying less, you can support local & independent designers, (many of whom promote sustainable fashion) keeping our fashion industry moving & your threads lookin unique, as independent designers only create small runs of their garms, keeping waste to a minimum.

It is estimated that Britain will spring clean & de-clutter their wardrobes sending an astonishing 680 million garms to charity shops & landfill each year, (that is in just Britain!)with many of the charity shops passing most of their donations onto landfill too. Perhaps give a second thought to your de-cluttering & fast-fashion obsessions, if repair & remake isn't your thing yet, why not make a start by buying less & resale/pass on good quality items. Stop now, save the planet, get involved! I'd like to say it's never too late but that isn't true is it? 



Thanks to this interesting article from The Guardian for the stats! 

If you are having a fashion event, a new collection or fun event you would like No Debutante to promote please get in touch!

No Debutante promotes fashion independents, new designers & sustainable fashion. 

Check out my work with Bristol 24/7 magazine here under my name 

Emma Gorton-Ellicott

If you are interested in collaborating with No Debutante or getting featured on the No Debutante blog please contact me nodebutanteblog@gmail.com

Keep up with No Debutantes OOTD posts, collabs and current fashion obsessions posted daily on all of the following. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest all under the #nodebutante name. 

Thanks for checking in Fashionistas

ND xx