T-shirt Cult Culture Subversion

At the weekend I actually removed myself from Bristol's comfy sofa and went along to an exhibition in London, that I would usually wish I had attended!  

It was all about T-shirts and I love T-shirts! Punk t-shirts, band t-shirts, slogan t-shirts, customised t-shirts. T-shirts are great aren't they?

The T-shirt Cult Culture Subversion exhibition was held at the Fashion and Textiles Museum, which was founded by the fabulous Zandra Rhodes, a new fact that I quite liked.

As soon as we (I had been joined by my childhood friends 'The Rach(a)el's') walked in the building there were display cabinets of Katherine Hamnett's famous political slogan t-shirts and a massive wall hanging of a Johnny Rotten t-shirt, which I kinda wanted to take home but it was so big I'd have to use it as a duvet cover. 

The exhibition was full of Vivenne Westwood's back catalogue of t-shirts from the punk t-shirts from Sex, Let it Rock and Seditionaires to the pirate inspired Worlds End to the contemporary political Westwood t-shirts, let's face it Vivienne loves a t-shirt! It was exciting to get to see all the original punk t-shirts too, all displayed on urban scaffolding style arrangements, just waiting to be explored.

There were a few examples of printing techniques from screen printing and digital printing to tacky glittered transfer t-shirts from the 1970's and early 80's, reminding me of some t-shirt gems that I was very upset to grow out of as a little kid.

The section of band t-shirts had iconic album cover prints from The Velvet Underground 'Banana' album with it's pop-art Warhol print and the legendary Joy Division 'Unknown Pleasures' T-shirt, that has been recreated and ripped off by other brands more times than I can remember, to the t-shirt that is the epitome of the 1980's Frankie Say Relax. If that t-shirt hadn't of been at the exhibition I would have walked out!

The Rach(a)el's and I also chuckled at the Hyper Global Colour T-shirt, as it reminded us of our raving days. I had been jealous of Rachael, when she had returned from the Clothes Show Live with her amazing new tech t-shirt, that she then proceeded to wear to a rave my Dad had driven us to. But that's another story.

The other Rachel loved the glittery graphic on the vintage Biba t-shirts, they were much more her style. At this point I discovered another interesting fact that Biba (who started off as a mail order catalogue) had a multi levelled shop where each floor had its own name, logo and it's own t-shirt design! Love this!

Vintage Biba - The four logos of the Biba shop

More t-shirts could be found upstairs with a collection of designer t-shirts, all couture customised up or logo obsessive. I did quite like the punked up Chanel No.5 t-shirt though. It was also nice to see a Banksy 'Dismaland' t-shirt pop up in this section too, just to remind me of Bristol and how great it is!

The final room was full of portraits taken by photographer Susan Barnett named Typology of T-shirts that featured the backs of people's t-shirts. Barnett would street shoot individuals wearing slogans/ prints on the back of their t-shirts to show their personalities and political views, explaining that it was easier to photograph a persons back as they do not have to show their face and they feel less intimidated.

'I look for individuals who stand out in a crowd by the choice of the message on their back'.
 Susan Barnett, Photographer.

I took this opportunity to have my photo taken with the T-shirt portraits as I was coincidentally wearing my 'waste of time' cardigan by Lazy Oaf. 

People often question that particular slogan and I reply, 'it's ironic', (as are all of the Lazy Oaf slogans) I am always cramming so much stuff into my life, I never see anything as a 'waste of time', except when I'm queueing, I hate queueing! You would be amazed at how many people actually take that cardigan slogan literally! I did have to remove the cardigan once when I realised I was wearing it at my oldest son's parents evening. I'm not sure they'd see the funny side,  although I did think it was hilarious to be wearing it. The power of the slogan, eh? 

Debutante

Overall, I did enjoy the T-shirt exhibition but I did feel they were missing skate t-shirts. Maybe it's because my husband skates, so I know more about skate t-shirts, than your average fashionista/ t-shirt lover; but there really are so many iconic skate t-shirts that could have been featured. Including the late 1980s/early 90s Vision Streetwear t-shirts, to the infamous Santa Cruz Screaming Hand print by artist Jim Phillips. Yeah, I probably do care a little more about these t-shirts but I think just one skate t-shirt could have been included somewhere? Especially since skate fashion is a big thing from the catwalks, to label lovers to every kid in the street!

The T-shirt Cult Culture Subversion exhibit has inspired me to share the vast t-shirt collection, that my husband and myself have managed to hoard over the years, with you lovely lot; this may take a bit of time to compile but watch this space for the No Debutante T-shirt Obsession blog post, inspired by this Fashion and Textiles museum visit.

Thanks for having me London, I will be back again soon for more fashion fun xx

All photography by No Debutante

If you are having a fashion event, a new collection or fun event you would like No Debutante to promote please get in touch!

No Debutante promotes fashion independents, new designers & sustainable fashion. 

Check out my work with Bristol 24/7 magazine under my name 

Emma Gorton-Ellicott

If you are interested in collaborating with No Debutante or getting featured on the No Debutante blog please contact me nodebutanteblog@gmail.com

Keep up with No Debutantes OOTD posts, collabs and current fashion obsessions posted daily on all of the following. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest all under the #nodebutante name. 

Thanks for checking in Fashionistas

ND xx

International Women's Day 2018 - The No Debutante Power List

It's really hard to choose just a few of the women who have inspired me. I'd like to include just a few names from my very, very long list of fabulous female influencers from fashion designers, musicians, actresses & writers who have influenced me in my adult life up until this point & have inspired me think, I can do it too! 

As teenager I was not as confident as I am now, I would dream of doing all of the things I do, like DJing, being a journalist, a fashion designer, writing and performing my own music, I honestly was a small town girl with no aspirations except that I needed to leave the small town as soon as I could & do something creative with my life! 

My six year old daughter, Sylvie reminds me every day, how a young girl is easily influenced by the world around her & that I need to make sure she feels safe, confident & strong enough to conquer the world! As I have also done for her two brothers. 

Feminism is often wrongly associated with men hating, which is ridiculous. I am a feminist & I am married, I have sons, a brother, a father, nephews & as many male friends as females. For me feminism is about empowering females, helping them to love themselves & equality for all. Feminists love men too! Any female who tells you that you cannot like men if you are a feminist, is not a feminist. 

My list of super influencers consists of a lot of punk icons, riot grrrls, feminists, activists, musicians, fashionistas & journalists, it pretty much sums me up, my style & ethos on how I live my life; with each amazing female adding a little to bit of magic & inspo to my life in their own way. 



The Power list 2018

Kathleen Hanna

Feminist, female activist, band member & vocalist from  Le Tigre, The Julie Ruin & the most influential riot-grrrl band ever Bikini Kill! Kathleen started performing her outspoken poetry at open mic nights, shouting out heart-felt, strong & passionate messages about life experiences & how she felt as a feminist. The poetry naturally moved into starting a punk band 'Bikini Kill', where Kathleen would shout out 'girls to the front' to create a safer space for girls to enjoy the band, knowing from her own experiences of going to gigs & being shoved around (& often groped) by the male gig goers around her. To get a better idea of Kathleen Hanna's world you must watch The Punk Singer, it's an inspiring film about an amazing lady. Kathleen Hanna is the queen of my world! 

Caitlin Moran

Outspoken & hilarious! Caitlin Moran became a journalist for Melody Maker aged just 16 & wrote a book about being home schooled , The Chronicles of Narmio in the same year , by the time she was 18 she was a TV presenter on Channel 4's music show Naked City. Caitlin came from a very large family, who were all crammed into a three bedroomed council house in Wolverhampton, her unusual upbringing influenced her honest & raw writing style. I became motivated after reading her book, 'How To Build a Girl' which is loosely based on her life at the time of her journalism career with Melody Maker. This hilarious & honest book inspired me to write more, for both articles & lyric writing for my band  & to just do what I want to do as often as possible; at 40 years old I was a little bit behind with starting my journalism career. Keep at it, it's never too late, I am now a Fashion Editor! Thanks Caitlin Moran, I owe you! 

Chloe Sevigny

Chloe has been one of my style icons & girl crushes since the nineties. She was the coolest kid on the block & seemed to be living the life that I would have liked to be living! I wasn't  jealous of her despite her featuring in Sonic Youth's Sugar Cane video or having a 7 page article written about her in The New Yorker, who called her 'The coolest girl in New York' at just 19 years old! This was a positive thing happening to a young girl who also seemed like me, normal & most importantly, I related to her. During the nineties Chloe was modelling for Miu Miu & acting in her then boyfriend Harmony Korinne's films 'Gummo' (Chloe was also the films very on-point,fashion stylist) & Larry Clark's controversial film, 'Kids'. Despite no formal training in acting Chloe managed to win the Independent Spirit Award for her role as Jennie. This girl just kicks ass doesn't she?? 

Debbie Harry

The beautiful front women of Blondie, who found fame in her early 30s when the bands disco influenced record 'Heart of Glass' launched her into international fame. Debbie confidently crossed punk & new wave with disco & hip-hop with streetwise sass & glamour. Blondie records were part of the soundtrack of my life as a kid! I walked down the isle to marry Phil to Blondie's 'Heart of Glass' (I don't have a heart of glass, this track just has good beats to strut down the isle to) & you may or may not know that the No Debutante name came from the Blondie track 'Dreaming'. In this record, Debbie Harry sings 'you could tell I was no debutante'. I choose these words to name my blog as I needed a name that explained my situation; here I was a pregnant fashion blogger in her mid thirties, I wanted to be honest, 'yeah, I'm older, I'm no debutante but so what? Read my blog!' Did you know Debbie Harry was also the first ever white female rapper back in 1980 with the Blondie track Rapture??? Debbie Harry is still touring with Blondie in her 70s! A total legend! 

M.I.A

M.I.A inspired me through her music. This girl used to sit in her room experimenting with sounds and beats using a Roland MC-505 sequencer, a drum machine & a radio microphone, creating the foundations of what would become her signature sound, mixing electronica, hip hop, dance, rock & world music. M.I.A not only composes her own music she also writes the lyrics, sings vocals, raps & produces her work.  I love it that M.I.A is influenced by many of the same bands as me including The Slits, Malcolm McLaren & The Clash and in turn I have been influenced by her music for my own band Mono Dots. M.I.A isn't just about the music, this girl gets stuff done, she is a mother, an activist, studied fine art, film and video at Central St Martins College, she's an artist & film maker. M.I.A is A.M.A.Z.I.N.G.! 

Poly Styrene

X-ray Spex vocalist Poly Styrene is awe-inspiring! She screamed out her soulful wail of bubblegum punk with the most creative, fun & thought provoking lyrics about popular culture, consumerism and life during the 1970s, with a dark undergrowth, covered in day-glo paint! This young Londoner, seemed to observe life in a different way to the other punks, she turns up on Top of The Pops with braces on her teeth, singing about hygiene obsessions & Warriors in Woolworths, looking a little jaded by her fame & naively unaware how powerful her lyrics really were. I love Poly's style, of bright colours, mixed with punk militaria & granny style polyester twinsets and flats, with either a military hat or big knitted hair-wrap. Poly was also one of the very few black women in punk. Sadly this inspiring lady died of cancer in 2011, aged  53. I play her records nearly every time I DJ! 

The Slits & Ari Up (centre) 

The Slits are an all female punk band who formed in London in 1976, the year I was born. Their dubby punk sound was real experimental & had an energetic pulse that had a live, raw feel. The band was fronted and formed by Ari Up, a 14 years old girl who was taught to play guitar by Joe Strummer of The Clash, Ari was no stranger to the punk world, John Lydon (Johnny Rotten from the Sex Pistols) is her step dad. The DIY punk ethos inspired young people to pick up an instrument & 'play it your way', The Slits did just that. Ari Up had a big influence on The Slits music with her love for reggae & dub coming through strongly. Their album Cut, controversially, featured the band covered in mud wearing only loin cloths, giving a strong amazonian female aesthetic without sexual connotations. Their record Typical Girls featured on this album, it talks about girls who conform to acting the way they have been told, to wear make-up, get a boyfriend, don't rebel! It's such a great record, that tries to encourage women to be themselves & not conform to the ideals of men (at the time) & the media. sadly, I'm not too sure much has really changed on this in the past 40 years! Ari Up has an usual way of delivering her lyrics, she seems to weave up & down the verses, leaving pauses in random places & screams out vibrato noises with her very own singing style, which I find fascinating. Perhaps it was to do with English not being her first language (Ari was from originally from Germany) but her delivery was unique, it was amazing! Sadly Ari Up also died of cancer in 2010, aged 48. "Ari was the most dynamic woman I have ever known, the way she carried herself was a revolution." Viv Albertine, The Slits.

Viv Albertine

The guitarist of The Slits, Viv Albertine already had my approval of a being a strong, influential women. Last year I read her autobiography Clothes Clothes Clothes, Music Music Music, Boys Boys Boys, to be honest, she had me at the title! This book merged her life as a member of The Slits, her fashion obsessions including detailed descriptions of what she wore, her boyfriends (including Mick Jones from The Clash) , the grotty side of the London punk scene & her struggles as a women in the music industry. I read this book & it opened a window in my brain, to write & create music & collaborate with other like-minded people. Viv Albertine has recently written a follow up book named 'To throw away, unopened'. I shall definitely be purchasing a copy when it is released! 

Vivienne Westwood

The Queen of punk, Vivienne Westwood, fashion designer, feminist, activist! My ultimate life goal! Creator of punk alongside her then partner Malcolm McLaren, Vivienne created the punk style & a hang out for young punks on the Kings Road at their shop Sex, controversially selling bondage gear with Edwardian teddy boy clothes and Vivienne's own DIY punk creations. After putting together the Sex Pistols alongside McLaren the two were unstoppable. Vivienne & McLaren collaborated on the Pirate collection which launched them into the fashion world with fans that  included Lady Diana!  The pair opened their shop Worlds End in 1984. Following her departure from Malcolm, Vivienne went on under her own name, as the queen of new romantics, conquering the fashion world as she went. I am fascinated by Vivienne when she talks about cutting fabrics & styling, the women could (& probably did) make a bin liner work! Influenced by traditional pattern cutting of the past & completely messing with it to create a mix of traditional & contemporary shapes & styling, with a bit of punk thrown in. This amazing woman is knocking 80 years old but is still showing garments every season, changing her hair more than me, stomping around in the highest platforms & wearing garms from her latest collection like their were made for only her, whilst saving the planet!! This woman can do no wrong! 




Women are great aren't they? Happy International Women's Day 2018! 

If you are having a fashion event, a new collection or fun event you would like No Debutante to promote please get in touch!

No Debutante promotes fashion independents, new designers & sustainable fashion. 

Check out my work with Bristol 24/7 magazine here under my name 

Emma Gorton-Ellicott

If you are interested in collaborating with No Debutante or getting featured on the No Debutante blog please contact me nodebutanteblog@gmail.com

Keep up with No Debutantes OOTD posts, collabs and current fashion obsessions posted daily on all of the following. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest all under the #nodebutante name. 

Thanks for checking in Fashionistas

ND xx 

Queen Viv and the Pirates

One of the most influential and anarchic fashion heroes of mine has to be Vivienne Westwood. Queen Viv influenced the UK punk scene alongside Malcolm Maclaren, opening her shop Sex on the Kings Road in London, selling everything from rubber bondage gear to her own ripped t-shirts and bondage trousered collections, a complete anti-fashion statement if there ever was one a backlash against the hippies, bowler-hatted bankers, nylon dresses and flared trousers that dominated the UK during the 1970s.

Vivienne Westwood, muse Annabella Lwin from Bow Wow Wow, The Pirate collection.

Vivienne and Malcolm also inspired and influenced young people to express themselves and make themselves heard, with Musicians including the Sex Pistols, Bow Wow Wow, Siouxie Sioux, Adam Ant and Culture Club, who were all dressed by Westwood and some point in their careers, and in their own right, became unlikely superstars.

2017 AW collections, Seditionaries label and the band Bow Wow Wow

I am so inspired by Viv's new romantic, pirate collection nearly 40 years on, even as a little kid I remember wanting to covet it. I saw a really interesting documentary on Vivienne Westwood, who describes her fascination with old patterns and an obsession with Pirates in great detail. She then went on to describe how 17th century (pirates) trousers were made during the Golden age of pirates and how the cut of the trousers was cut much bigger on the backside to create the draping, almost nappy like effect, Vivienne was inspired and used this pattern cutting style to create her own pirate trousers. By the time I had watched this I was hooked and fascinated by Vivienne Westwood, the way she looked out of the box to create something new (or old in this case) for her latest collections.

I just love the way Vivienne cuts her oversized t-shirts so perfectly, they hang in a different way to other designers clothing, it's almost a structured, make it up as you go along but perfect, a contradiction, it's ingenious! Viv also loves an elongated sleeve, the more ridiculous the better and her collections always feature a pair of sports socks here and there, maybe that is where my obsession comes from too? I can't confirm that though but psychologically? Maybe!

Vivienne Westwood AW 2017, Sex Shop on Kings Road, Culture Club. 

Lastly, I must mention Vivienne Westwood's personal style. This woman looks good in everything. She adds a little 18th-century vintage with a splash of punk and a touch of streetstyle and nails it every time. Every collection she has ever made, Vivienne (often accompanied by her husband Andreas Kronthaler) takes a strut down the catwalk wearing an outfit from her latest collection, with her beautiful pale English skin tone and her fiery red or bleached blonde hair, the woman can't go wrong! Vivienne Westwood, a style icon, a lifestyle icon, a need for something different, her love of fashion, pattern cutting and her links to music culture are an inspiration. They broke the mould when they made this fashionista!

Images sourced from viviennewestwood.com, vogue.com and pinterest.

If you are a fashion designer, having a fashion event or a have a new collection you would like 
No Debutante to promote please get in touch!
Check out my work with Bristol 24/7 magazine here under my name Emma Gorton-Ellicott

If you are interested in collaborating with No Debutante or getting featured on the No Debutante blog please contact me

Keep up with No Debutantes OOTD posts, collabs and current fashion obsessions posted daily on all of the following. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Tumblr,  Pinterest all under the #nodebutante name.

Thanks for checking in Fashionistas.

ND xx

Tartan - My Current Obsession

My current obsession is Tartan. I have collected many Tartan images on Pinterest over the past year or so and thought I would finally share them with you since Tartan is a big thing this Autumn / Winter. I have mentioned tartan on my blog before back in 2011 and as I said in my last post (find it here http://no-debutante.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/punk-rockabily-and-tartan-army.html ) I have always liked tartan, it's like camouflage print for me, I would be happy wearing it continuously long after tartan has been declared dead by the fashion police. I really have become more and more put off  following trends and to be honest have become quite contrary with fashion and feel the need to wear a thing especially if it has been declared as a fashion no-no. However, since tartan is very big this Autumn/ Winter (and nearly every A/W season for that matter) I have had no trouble in sourcing tartan items from the high street and beyond to share with you.

 

The first tartan dresses are Courtney Love inspired baby dolls, one is from my favourite AW13 show Saint Laurent and the other is Primark's version. I did not see this dress in Primark on my last Primark Sunday but I love it and want it!

I had to show you the Midi Kilts from Asos, they look terrifying to most (even me) but I am channelling Audrey Horne from Twin Peaks (in the images below the Midi kilts) this high school Lolita works the midi skirt and I cannot encourage you enough to watch Twin Peaks, it is amazing!

The Harajuku girl has been working the tartan kilt for years, it has never really been away with her as far as I can see from all my years of collecting Fruits books and magazines and more recently following online! These Japanese kids of cool wear theirs with tucked in tees, bomber jackets and creeper shoes with ankle socks and are not afraid to mix their tartans! 

Topshop have gone for the shorter version of the kilt and the tartan shorts are pretty cool. Peephole biker boots seem to be the shoe of choice to wear with your kilt for the Brit Girl.

Tartan and Punk are always linked, I had this image of my fashion heroine Vivenne Westwood on my Pinterest board alongside the Made Me photoshoot of the girl wearing her tartan mini kilt with a Slutz tee I loved the styling of this shoot which I found in TLG magazine earlier this year (and I haven't seen a single copy of it since - some investigating is needed here) Check out more from Made Me here http://mademe.bigcartel.com/ and TLG Magazine here http://tlgmagazine.com/

Inspired by Vivienne Westwood's Tartan suit I went looking on the high street for something similar (a tartan suit can be a dangerous thing on the wrong person) I came across two pairs of sportluxe styles, a sequin tartan two piece from Topshop that seemed so wrong, it's right and the tartan hareems at Asos which are pretty punk inspired.

I love the image of the girl in the green tartan mini pinafore and leather jacket, It has been a favourite on my Pinterest board so I have found a version of the green pinafore from Asos, very cute (and very short - 150 denier tights a must!).

Check out the Sunset Boulevard grunge chicks they look great with the tartan a-line minis, backpacks, long socks and biker boots. 

Of course, I had to show you what Vivien of Holloway have to offer in tartan, check out the tartan circle skirt straight off of the set of Grease and worn with a petticoat, it's so dreamy.....Vivien of Holloway also offer lots of pencil skirt styles in tartan in loads of different colours so get on their website and start crying about how you can't possibly own it all!! http://www.vivienofholloway.com/

Lastly, I had to feature the Buffalo Stance fashion story from August Vogue UK, I fell in love with the styling instantly, it's a mix of Vivenne Westwoods Pirate collection with inspiration from 1990s John Galliano smeared all over it! I have been really inspired by it and had to share it with you. There was a lot of tartan featured in the story and I have chosen a couple of images on this occasion but I love them all! Check out Freja Beha Erichsen working the look here https://www.myfdb.com/editorials/131916-vogue-british-editorial-buffalo-stance-august-2013

 Randomly whilst shopping the look on the high street I found these patchwork jeans at Zara which were totally inspired by the Junya Watanabe jeans in the Buffalo Stance story. This version remind me of some jeans I had when I was a kid in the late 1980s, I am unsure about them but I am tempted to go and try them on!!

Oh, Tartan I love you! How about you guys? To wear Tartan or to not wear Tartan??

Keep following to see how I wear tartan over the winter months and go get yours as it's all over the high street!  Thanks for reading xx

All images courtesy of http://www.vivienofholloway.com  http://www.zara.com http://www.vogue.co.uk http://www.asos.com http://www.topshop.com http://mademe.bigcartel.com www.tumblr.com http://mashyumaro.tumblr.com http://fashiongrunge.com http://tokyofashion.com

Follow my pinterest boards here http://www.pinterest.com/nodebutante/boards/

ND xx