The death of fashion....as we know it

Pioneering fashion designer Vivienne Westwood - Photograph by Justin Sutcliffe

What is a fashion designer?

"a person who designs high-fashion clothing."

Fashion has always been about the latest trends or the next big thing..... then we got greedy.

The more that was on offer, the more we wanted until we ended up where we are now. Up to our necks in fast fashion waste!

Until about 10 years ago, it was all about following the corporate fashion designers seasonal trends. This was a big enough problem as we were encouraged to update our wardrobes to meet the current seasons colours, shapes and must have items.

Now, we now have mid season and pre-collections with some brands dropping weekly limited edition pieces at extortionate prices. This in turn influences the high street and the smaller brands.

Every day the high street fills itself up with more fast fashion products competing with online stores to have the latest items available, (often the same sort of turfed out fast fashion is seen from shop to shop), all made super quickly and sold mega cheap, on a buy now and throw away later ethos! It is complete madness!

Shocking fast Fashion waste - istock image/justhavealook

How can supporting independent designers help slow fashion?

Despite the big, and rightly so, fast fashion backlash, we should still all be free to create.
There should be no stigma attached to somebody wanting to become a fashion designer or run their own fashion brand.

Most independent fashion designers and makers are not in it to make lots of money. They want to create and aspire to be able to become successful enough to start up their own small business, instead of working the 9 to 5, only creating in their spare time.

Independent fashion designers and makers work super hard to achieve their ambitions with a passion to create beautiful things!

An independent designer will make small capsule collections, often by hand, collections of limited editions on a tiny scale, reducing the amount of waste used and if you buy independent, you are supporting slow fashion too!

There are many amazing independent fashion designers and makers out there but we also have the independent brands, which is slightly different and could be seen as a problem.

The extremely hardworking , Bristol fashion designer Joh Rindom from independent streetwear brand & shop - That Thing  who also support other sustainable & independent UK Brands. 

What is a brand?

"a product or item made by a famous maker or manufacturer, as opposed to by a generic manufacturer."

The name brand is thrown around and used quite differently nowadays, it's not about making it in the fashion world until you have a recognisable logo.

The word brand can be used if you are creating a range of products, often starting with a logo or signature motif, whether you are a collective of designers or a single designer. Sometimes fashion design doesn't even come into it and it's all about the graphical content.

The worrying thing is that many independent fashion brands are influenced by the big corporates, with a drive to be very successful, even famous. Is it such a great thing to aspire to being just like the fast fashion corporate brands? Everyone is influenced by something right? It's a fine line....

There are many new brands that go straight for the marketing angle, creativity barely comes into it and a background in business is the top priority. By designing basic logos and graphics, many of these forward-thinking brands print them onto ready made tshirts and streetwear items.

They have already considered their marketing plan before designing a single product. Sharing images of bright young things and influencers wearing their (often quite basic) collection of products, promoting themselves on Instagram or Depop as the next big thing.

Many of these brands have an entrepreneurial focus, they haven't come from fashion school and neither do they have a degree in graphic design, they've just decided to do it.

As a fashion journalist, I see so much of this and I often think to myself, but where's the creativity?

You'd have to agree their aspiration (to conquer the fast fashion world!) isn't quite where it should be but they have considered their marketing strategies, it's impressive. In comparison, I've seen amazingly creative and unique designers fall flat as they just haven't considered any marketing plan at all, which means that not enough consumers are getting to see their amazing creations!

There is still some work needed to convince the new independent fashion brands to consider using more sustainable and slow fashion alternatives but at least they've tried to go out there and create something for themselves.

Cat Jameson from sustainable raincape business Carny Valley

There is no harm in starting up a new fashion brand if you are producing a slow fashion product, on small runs. I would support an independent brand over a fast fashion corporate any day!

The only problem is there are so many new brands starting all the time, with Instagram and Depop having a big influence. These days if you are pretty savvy on social media you could end up making a living out of it. This is the dream...

However, this is very different from the way an independent fashion designer works.

Looking at this practically and not strategically, a fashion brand is likely to print and embroider onto ready made sourced items like t-shirts and sweatshirts, they will have a logo and basic graphics and after choosing colourways and print placements, they use their amazing marketing skills to sell their products.

A fashion designer creates their own garments from scratch and often hand makes a whole collection using a selection of fabrics. They are very hands on and understand how to construct a garment and make limited small runs of each collection, with a few one off pieces added ad-hoc. The marketing side often comes in second place but is still extra work on top of all that making and creating. 

A fairly new term that has made it onto the fashion circuit is Cut and Sew. Often used by a brand that has started experimenting with creating their own garments and patterns, bringing a bit more personality and variation, even more creativity into their collections. Again, a Cut and Sew brand will probably still get these ranges made up for them after the initial sample patterns are decided.

Lulu Harrison from Balulu in Bristol upcycles fun garments from vintage Indian bedsheets

There is no right or wrong here...

After establishing what type or designer or brand you are, the big main focus needs to be to make sure you are not contributing to fast fashion. This is a hard one to swallow as anyone creating more fashion products is instantly contributing to the over-flowing fashion mess.

Even if you are the most sustainable and ethical t-shirt brand out there, that's one more t-shirt being created and put out. How can we justify this?

We can't as such, but we can change the mind of the consumers themselves and this is where all independent fashion designers and brands need to start.

Fashion doesn't need to stop, it needs to change. We still need clothes and sometimes we need to buy new clothes!

Helen Brown (left) from Kecks Clothing & No Debutante at a fashion salvage event at BTR in 2015 - Image courtesy of BTR

If you are a fashion brand, don't aim to be the next big thing, by mass producing and contributing to fast fashion, slow things down! Make sure your products are good quality and are built to last. Use ethically and sustainably made t-shirts, print very small, slow fashion runs, promote sustainability and slow fashion.

Too often I have seen a new brand get up to 100 t-shirts printed up only to sell about 10 of them, often to friends. I dread to think what happened to the rest! Start small....

If you are an ethical fashion brand, you have already considered most of the above (well done you!) but make sure your print designs are interesting and unique, as printing a logo onto a sustainably made t-shirt isn't really that much better than fast fashion, you are not contributing anything new.

It is a great thing that you are supporting sustainable and ethical fashion but don't wear it as a badge. Keeping things creative and fresh is key.

A selection of independent Bristol designers and brands at The Island Christmas shop 2018

If you are reading this as a consumer consider the following....

Support slow fashion. Support sustainable. Support independent. Support local.

Watch this space to read my next blog post to find out more on how to be more sustainable as both a designer, a brand and a consumer! 

Read more:  How I became a slow fashion blogger 

How I became a slow fashion blogger

The No Debutante blog has been going for nearly 8 years in July! It has progressed from a pregnancy fashion blog to a lifestyle and fashion blog that supports independent designers, sustainable and slow fashion. 

There are no more shopping hauls or 'top 5 faves from the high street' posts as I am just not consuming fashion the way I used to and that's a good thing!

June's purchase a pair of mens leopard print trousers from the Urban Outfitters sale

At the most I figure I am buying one fashion item a month and that item is always considered on whether I need it and will I really wear it and most importantly, does it support slow fashion? 

Don't get me wrong. I love fashion, I love design, colour and print! I just don't follow trends anymore or dedicate myself to big fashion designers, which is maybe the wrong way to go for a fashion blogger and journalist, but I'm just being honest with myself and my ethics. 

Layering up in three independent designers creations including earrings by Kashaya Makes, Jacket by Kuccia & Duvet Days trousers

I am not a saint in supporting slow and sustainable fashion either. I love trainers and I am not completely against buying from the high street, I just don't buy that often and I don't crave for the next big thing, not even with trainers! 

I buy fashion items when I love them and limiting yourself helps you to see more clearly, which in turn stops that fast, random purchase, that you just had to buy, but never wore....

The importance is to get the balance right, in these images alone, featuring six of my outfits from the past couple of months, 10 items are from independent designers, 4 items from the high street, one was a present (and was handmade), one item was fashion salvaged and one item is vintage. This includes accessories and footwear too! I am happy that only a quarter of the things I have worn, originally came from the high street! I am going in the right direction! Small changes mean a lot! 

Print clashing in a fashion salvaged jumpsuit and Balulu jacket (upcycled from bedsheets). 

The way I blog has changed too. I used to beat myself about not blogging enough from my style posts to the latest trends and shows. When instagram came along it changed the way I shared my style forever. It's much easier to share one image a day or a week, it expresses your style perfectly whilst reaching a wider audience.

I could have given the whole blogging malarkey up but I still loved writing and wanted to encourage people over to my blog. Things changed again once I started supporting independent designers as this was a new edge on what I had previously been doing (the same as all the other fashion bloggers....yawn), it felt good to support and promote independents and they were also kind enough to share the love and direct their followers to my blog too! 

The No Debutante blog also got me the job as fashion editor at Bristol 24/7 magazine. It's done me proud! 

Vintage meets leopard print (left) my amazing new Bikini Kill t-shirt bought for me for my birthday by Phil (right)

I am not sure about the future of blogging but I will continue to blog at my own pace and hope you enjoy my little posts and that they inspire you in some way!

Do follow what I am up to on my social media platforms too - Instagram, Twitter and Facebook, all under the @nodebutante name 

Big Love & slow fashion xx

Two worlds collide

For those who haven't been following the No Debutante antics over the past few weeks on social media, this is a quick catch up covering the side of Love Saves the Day that doesn't feature in my articles as fashion editor for Bristol 24/7! 

Here's some moments of friends and fun that happened at Loves Saves The Day festival here in Bristol, alongside a gig with my band Mono Dots for the M32 Skate Jam after party at The Chelsea Inn, that I managed to squeeze in between the two day event! Phew! It's been a busy one, but that's how we like it! Find out what happens when my two worlds collide!

 Love Saves The Day 2019

Hanging out with our festival faves The Fashpack including the lovely Joh Rindom from That Thing and the hilarious Zoe Zedhead, plus the No Debutante partner in crime, sister fashionista, " I only exist in this realm" Rachael. 

The No Debutante chosen outfit for the Saturday was this amazing pair of Lucy and Yak X Emotional Waterfall dungarees which are just the comfiest thing ever, worn with a crop top on this gloriously sunny day at LSTD. 

Getting my glitter did by Zoe Zedhead and hanging with independent designers Pluma and Balulu! I acquired the sun visor after a few large rum cocktails but it seems to match nicely with my Zedhead pom-pom earrings!

The No Debutante LSTD Sunday outfit (above left) features my fave catsuit by Mannerswear, a bumbag purchased at the festival by Butchi and Gosmos, the antique kimono given to me by an elderly neighbour - who thought I might wear it - (Thank you Mary!) and my lovely new XL tassel earrings by the brilliant Bristol designer, Dakota Rae Dust that arrived just in time for the weekend!

Love these girls!

A couple of amusing shots from the Sunday including Zoe Headhead and NOT Idris Elba and Rachael with the tallest, most fabulous drag queen at LSTD coming in at 7' 2"  (well, she was wearing ridiculously high platforms). 

The M32 Skate Jam After party gig at The Chelsea Inn (Saturday Night)

Rocking those festival vibes in a punk mash-up with my band Mono Dots at The Cheslea Inn at the M32 Skate Jam after party, where local skaters had come together to raise money for the skate park underneath the M32, here in Bristol. 

The Los Savages  - an awesome surf-skate band of goofballs that features Mr Debutante on trumpet.

My new favourite band Tropical Nightmare!!! A- MAZING! 

FIN

No Debutante X Jolanta Valeniece

It's here! The No Debutante X Jolanta Valeniece photo shoot collaboration!   

Jolanta is a photographer who works in both Bristol and London, capturing reportage style photographs of clubbers to edgy streetstyle photoshoots. 

This fun female collaboration took place on the same week as International Women's Day and was a great way to celebrate female empowerment! 

Thank you so much to the amazing and inspiring Jolanta xx

Location - Dean Lane Skate Park, Bristol

Photography by Jolanta Valeniece  
Styling & Model No Debutante



Boilersuit  - Lucy and Yak
Rainbow jacket - Primark
Trainers - Nike Air Force One Jester XX
Catsuit - Mannerswear
Mesh dress - Monki
Earrings - Tezla Designs
Beanie - That Thing

Shaker Makers - Shake Bristol

A few weeks back I attended my first Shake zine fair at Rough Trade here in Bristol.

I am a massive zine fan, it's on my to do list to make a zine but I honestly just over think things! One day, maybe!

Shake Bristol put on zine fairs and events celebrating illustrators and zine makers around the country. The fairs focus on comics, t-shirts, zines and prints and encourage illustrative makers to join their colourful and creative events.

Attracted to the bright colours and fun, wobbly Spongebob meets skate artist Jim Phillips characters with more than a wink to gruesome/surf album art from bands like The Cramps, yeah, they got my attention with their poster!

@shakebristol

The Palentines Day Shake art fair poster 

From traditional tattoo artworks, comic book characters to Memphis style and handmade jewellery by the lovely Sophie Filomena, there were plenty of goodies to get my attention but I am always sucked in by the zines! 

Local artist Sophie Filomena with her artworks and statement earrings at the Shake Art Fair. 

I love the shortness and straight to the point-ness of a zine, illustrated characters (that are often an alter-ego or reflection of the artist) and downright honest topics. 

A zine will take you into unknown worlds and scenes, normalising everything from self doubt to mundane life moments and personal experiences, using illustrations and (in most cases) words too. 

The DIY element to zines is always super inspiring and a great way to share your artwork and thoughts. Zines are good for the soul! 

Fun at the Shake Art Fair

I could personally of hung out at the Shake art fair all day, chatting with the artists and looking at all the artwork but sadly my teenage sons attention span and excitement for art crashed way before mine! Before they removed me from my zine fair/ record shop haven we did end up with a few goodies from the day including.....

The Shake haul!

A Space Wolf comic by William Powers

A fun comic series, with the hero of the story being Space Wolf. My daughter Sylvie is keen to get her hands on more copies of Space Wolf at the next fair! 
@willisokong



Boring Comics and Sorry I missed your gig zines by Emma Thacker

These are real sweet and honest zines about the difficulties of fitting in and motivating yourself to go do the things you like! Truly inspiring comics by London based illustrator Emma Thacker. 
@saltandchilli_emma



Shake Bristol also have a website with lots of own brand arty products up for grabs from t-shirts, tote bags, stickers, pins and patches to comics and zines. 

The Shake Mag is not to be missed as it features lots of illustrators and artists from around the world who have collaborated with Shake on a chosen theme, the most recent being The Wrestling issue. For a mere £8 you get 152 pages of illustrations by 52 artists and a free sticker and a bookmark too?? Wowsers! 

Artwork by Sophie Filomena as featured in the Shake Mag - Wrestling issue

@sophiefilomena


No Debutante totally recommends going along and supporting your local artists and zine fairs, there is so much happening and to explore!

Go check out Shake Bristol and all the illustrators mentioned here today and do get in touch with Shake Bristol if you are an illustrator who wants to collaborate!

Warning no dweebs.....

This is Radio Bang

I'm going a bit off the fashion track here with a post about DJing and radio shows! But hey! It's my blog and I need to promote my new venture! 

One of my sidelines from being a blogger/journalist and mother is that I DJ. You may or may not know this already. I have been repping female DJs for 17 years, since I started spinning vinyl sets with, my (now) husband, Phil, in a Bristol pub back in 2002!

No Debutante DJing at the Bang club night
 at To The Moon in Bristol, Nov 2018

By 2003, after a lot more record collecting, we, alongside my brother Mike, had started up our very own club night Bang, which has just celebrated it's 16th birthday! We pride ourselves on playing all vinyl sets from a mash up of genres from northern soul to electro to post punk to alternative 80s, to name a few of the many genres we might drop in one evening.

The one thing we wanted to do was to play the music we loved and make people dance. Bang is a fun, small underground club night that has a cult following of Bangers that want to party hard! Who knew our lil' club night would last this long and we'd have such an amazing group of people support us!?!

Last year, I wanted to try something new. I started seriously thinking about presenting my own radio show, something that had always been a bit more of a dream than a realty. I hadn't considered that I could actually get my own show right here in Bristol, on a local independent radio station. I was pretty much clueless.

I was offered the chance to try out a pilot show as part of the SisterWorks residency on 1020 Radio. I was terrified but just went with it, I even spoke! I planned out my own little - all vinyl - show and played for an hour, mostly female artists and female fronted bands to rep women in music, and, I was hooked....

I literally enquired about doing my own show at 1020 Radio during my set and a month later I was signed up to start my own monthly residency! They liked me! I am sooooo excited!!

My brand spanking new radio show is called This is Radio Bang and is goes out live every third Sunday of the month from 1pm-3pm. The first show starts on Sunday 17 February, on 1020 Radio, which is also a digital radio station, so you can listen to it live from wherever you are!

I shall be representing the Bang club night but also putting my own spin on it, with a few surprises thrown in. Please tune in and leave me messages and support on the 1020 forum and on social media and share the love!

Listen to No Debutante / Emma Bang 

This is Radio Bang show Live on 1020 Radio

Sun 17 Feb

1pm-3pm

Listen to my set on the SisterWorks radio show on 1020 Radio, I play the first hour of the show. It's pretty obvious when it's not me anymore! 

For people local to Bristol, join me at the next Bang club night at Bristol's legendary music venue The Louisiana on Saturday 30 March.

Top image courtesy of Nitelife Magazine with Photography by Ania Shrimpton 

Have yourself a very local Christmas...

There are so many supportive Christmas markets happening in Bristol this year with a big focus on encouraging us all to buy local by supporting independent creatives and makers, there is even an amazing social media campaign named Indies in Bristol that asks you to #actlocalxmas and to consider an alternative for Christmas gifts this year. 

Lulu Harrison from Balulu at The Pop-up Christmas shop at The Island, Bristol

Today, I popped over to The Pop-Up Christmas Shop at The Island,  initially to meet up with Lulu from the amazing, fun-filled fashion brand Balulu for a Bristol 24/7 article (more about that soon) and after an amazing dressing up session in these super-cute garms and a brief chat with Bec from Dakota Rae Dust, I noticed all the other amazing goodies on offer!

Lulu and No Debutante wearing  super-cute Balulu garms

The dressing up session continues - Dungarees and onesie by Balulu

From handmade geometric earrings by Hyprnrml statement earrings and t-shirts using vintage and upcycled fabrics by Dakota Rae Dust, Super cute kidswear by upcycle queens at Duvet Days, bold Ghanaian printed streetwear by Ashanti Empress, amazing doodle art from Dixon Does Doodles and that fun-filled, super-cute range of onesies, dungarees and jackets by Balulu. 

Lulu and Bec - designer at Dakota Rae Dust. Both have handmade goodies available at the Pop-up Christmas Market

Handmade tasselled jewellery by Dakota Rae dust (left) & handmade earrings by Hyprnrml 

Amazing homewares with bold & fun cartoon art by Dixon Does Doodles 

Ghanaian printed streetwear by Ashanti Empress (left) and the coolest upcycled kids clothes by Duvet Days (right).

The final outfits from our dressing up session - I went with the red Mickey Mouse two-piece! My official Christmas Day outfit! Thank you to Lulu from Balulu for the garms and the fun! 

If you are in Bristol get yourself down to all the amazing independent shops and Christmas markets and if you're not then go find yours, support independent and support local. Consider independent this Christmas!